Here for the travel advice and not to read my life story? Jump to Travel Recommendations for the tl;dr [too long; didn’t read] to plan your trip to Antigua now!
For once in my life I am glad that the driver of the bus I’m on in some unknown corner of Latin America is speeding like a maniac down the dangerous curves of this narrow, winding road. We are being propelled through the dark, through the rain, and there is naught a seatbelt in sight. The way the driver aggressively takes each turn is throwing me from left to right. I am making constant micro adjustments to try and steady myself, in order to not fall into the person wedged next to me on either side.
I am in the shittiest seat, towards the back of the bus. It is not even a real seat, a jump seat that folds out over the isle. I have this seat because I was the last one on the bus. And I was the last one of the bus because I injured my foot, and badly so, during the last five minutes of the hike and had to stop. I focus my mind on riding the waves of pain that mirror the movement of the bus as it rides the curves of the road.
I don’t know how badly I injured myself yet, and I am trying not to imagine the worst. But when we finally arrive back in Antigua, I can’t walk without help. Despite all of that, I go to a doctor the next morning and find out it is not the worst. I didn’t break anything, not even a fracture. Considering that I have sprained it in the past, I am quite pleasantly surprised that my ankle is actually totally fine. I only sprained my foot. It is slated to be a two week recovery.
This trip was supposed to be something special and fun for my birthday. Instead, I would spend it trying to decipher the meaning of this life lesson from the universe. It could be something about slowing down and not doing so much all the time. Maybe it means that I need to learn how to gracefully accept help from others or gracefully accept when things do not go according to plan. Above all, however, I suspect, I need to learn to give up control. While I cannot do things for myself during my recovery, I cannot do them my way. Maybe this injury is also a window into seeing how my need for hyper independence is actually my need for things to be done exactly as I want, and for what?
Travel Recommendations
- How much time do you need in Antigua?
- How to get to Antigua from Guatemala City
- Where to eat in Antigua
- Where to Stay in Antigua
- What to do in Antigua
- A footnote on Guatemala City
How much time do you need in Antigua?
Antigua is a cute colonial town, but in my opinion it is best suited as a jumping off point for other adventures such as Lake Atitlan, or the two day Acatenango Volcano hike. For exploring the city of Antigua itself, one full day is more than enough. One important note when planning is that the raining season in Guatemala is May through October, so be prepared for raining afternoons and reduced visibility during these months.
How to get to Antigua from Guatemala City
Traffic can be heavy in Guatemala City. It will take you anywhere from 1-3 hours to get to Antigua depending on what time you leave. Uber operates in both Guatemala City and Antigua. Once I was in Antigua, I never waited more than 2 minutes and never paid more than $2 for a ride.
Private Taxi $70-$100
I arranged a private taxi through the hotel I was staying at in Guatemala City. You can do the same with whatever hotel or Airbnb you are staying at in Antigua. This is the most expensive option but also the most comfortable and convenient. If there is heavy traffic, it will probably be about the same as an Uber. If you are not a planner and just show up to Guatemala City, you will still be ok. I arrived at about 10 pm and there were still agencies open inside the airport soliciting rides to Antigua at about the same price range.
Uber $50 (give or take)
You can request an Uber from the airport for Antigua. This is also a convenient option but the actual cost of the ride is going to depend on traffic.
Group Taxi website $20
My friend used this site, which brokers rides between riders and drivers, so don’t be surprised if a regular car picks you up instead of a branded company vehicle. There is a trade off in price for convenience here. For my friend, the driver was delayed about 30 minutes to pick her up. This service will probably also drop you in the main park of the city, not taking you directly to your hotel.
Where to eat in Antigua
There are no shortage of options to eat well in Antigua. You will find everything from traditional Guatemalan food to vegan ramen to fine dining. Here are a few of my favorites, but don’t stop there. If you just stroll through the main streets you are sure to find something appealing.
This place is simple, cheap and good. But come prepared, it is one of the few places in Antigua that only takes cash. They have a few varieties of traditional breakfast options, all served with fresh made tortillas. They also have a daily lunch menu featuring chicken roasted over an open fire.
The inside is open and filled with potted plants. There is no shortage of other options for breakfast. There are trendy places serving brunch. All surely delicious, but also something that you could find anywhere in the world. My recommendation is that you give this place a try first, it’s an experience that will stay with you.
If you need a vacation from your vacation, come here for good Italian food and a very generous portion size. They also have a romantic bar “El Tigre” inside the same building.
I personally didn’t get to try it but multiple locals recommended this place to me as a more upscale dining option
Another place that came recommended but I was’t able to verify for myself.
Where to Stay in Antigua
Like restaurants, there are plenty of good options of places to stay. Anywhere from the above mentioned Casa Santo Domingo, which is also a five star hotel, to hostels. There are plenty of young people running around Antigua in between strenuous volcano hikes. Which means there are plenty of affordable accommodations and lively bars that cater to foreigners.
This is the bed and breakfast where I stayed. It is located about a 20 minute walk from the city center, which meant it was quiet and affordable. I liked the made to order breakfast that was included and the garden within the interior courtyard. However, be aware that the staff only speaks Spanish here.
What to do in Antigua
There are a few standard attractions starting from Antigua, here are some of the most popular. Everything linked here you can find online, but there are also tour agencies in the city center that you can use to book all these same excursions, and more.
Day hike to Pacaya Volcano
There are no shortage of tour options for this popular day hike. I chose this mid range tour for $35. The hike it doable, but still tough. This hike is a steep climb at a high altitude, starting at about 6,500 and ending at about 7,500 ft.
Hobbitenango
A play on the Lord of the Rings and Acatenango, Hobbitenango offers stunning views of the 3 largest volcanoes in the area. It is also part theme park, with Hobbit like buildings and activities, including a bar. There are tours to arrive by ATV or bus, but be prepared to stay awhile. The feedback I received from both tours is that you really only need an hour but the tours give you longer than you really need to explore.
Overnight hike to Acatenango Volcano
This is an extremely popular hike in the area, and extremely difficult. This is one that you should come prepared for before attempting.
Other
Really the possibilities are endless depending on your preference. You can take a city tour, chocolate or coffee tour, or arrange transportation to places like Lake Atitlán or as far a Semuc Champey and beyond. I did not get to do much myself personally because of my injury so I can’t personally recommend anything other than the Pacaya volcano hike. Just know that you have the option to book ahead online or wait until you arrive in Antigua, as there will be plenty of agencies you can book directly with in the city center once you arrive.
A footnote on Guatemala City
If you are passing through Guatemala City on your way to Antigua, Lake Atitlán, or some other adventure, I have a few recommendations from the time I have spent there for work. When giving directions, locals may refer to the zone something is located in. Guatemala City is divided into 21 different zones, with zone one being the historic center.
I love this hotel, and stay here every time I come to Guatemala City. It is affordable, 10 minutes from the airport, and I always get excellent customer service. The breakfast and lunch buffet is on point. I love their large outdoor pool and hot tub, They also have a decent gym and spa service. You will pay a premium for a massage here but in my experience they are good quality.
This restaurant offers upscale food with a casual vibe in a trendy part of town. The menu changes daily based on what is available from the 23 municipal markets in the city that day, thus the name.
If you come here, I highly recommend opting for the tasting menu. Each of the 12 courses takes you through a different region of Guatemala, and a different period of Guatemalan history. To say it is a immersive culinary experience is an understatement.
Leave a Reply