Here for the travel advice and not to read my life story? Jump to Travel Recommendations for the tl;dr [too long; didn’t read] to plan your trip to Amsterdam now!
I felt giddy as my flight touched down. I was passing through the city somewhat incidentally. My end destination was Portugal but it was cheaper to fly through Amsterdam first. So I stretched my layover into a three-day trip. This gave me one day to recover from jet lag and a solid two days in Amsterdam to explore.
Amsterdam is one of those cities proceeded by its reputation. Personally, it has loomed large in my imagination for decades. A place where prostitution is not only legal but flaunted. Where weed, magic mushrooms, and who knows what else was accessible long before even medical clinics were open back home in California. A place where kids going to what at the time I considered “real” or four-year colleges would go to spend a semester abroad. It seemed like such an exciting and luxurious opportunity. One that I could only dream of as I worked my way through community college as a waitress to supplement my scholarships and financial aid.
I wanted to ride a bike around and meet new people from all over the world. Wear cozy sweaters and do drugs in coffee shops and bars. The fact that this was exactly how I was already spending most if not all of my time right at home in San Francisco and Oakland did not make it seem any less exotic.
By the time I finally had the chance to make that pilgrimage, I was in a very different state of mind. I spent my two days in Amsterdam on history and art tours. Taking in the old buildings and even older paintings. Trying new foods such as stroopwaffle (yay!) and pickled herring (nay).
Travel Recommendations
Where to Stay
Amsterdam is expensive! Hotels, hostels, and Airbnbs are all expensive. I ended up staying at CityHub Amsterdam, a capsule hotel. Overall, it was a good experience. I don’t really spend time in the hotel when I am traveling so this was a good option for me. It was clean and quiet. I loved the location. There was even a street market right outside where I stopped every morning for a fresh squeezed juice during my stay.
Travel tips
I don’t have much in the way of tips for this trip. It is easy to move through the city and everyone speaks English. The one thing I want to mention is, watch out for bikes! There is a lot of bicycle traffic and one sure-fire way to get cursed out from an otherwise friendly and easygoing local population is to cross the bike lane without looking.
How to spend 2 days in Amsterdam
Day 1
Free walking tour
Start your day with a free walking tour! This is a great way to start your trip, especially if you are short on time. I recommend taking one the first day to help you get oriented. Free Walking Tours Amsterdam is the one I went with. I took the classic tour, but they have several other options to chose from depending on your interest. There are also many, many other options to choose from when selecting a free walking tour.
This style of tour is available all over Europe. I have even started seeing them in some places in Latin America as well. They typically last 2-3 hours. Your guide will give you some historical context for the city and show you the main sights within walking distance. The tours are indeed free, but the guides are only paid through tips. Have cash on hand to fork over at least €5-€10 once the tour is over.
Foodhallen
Consider grabbing lunch or dinner at this trendy food hall. It is modeled after a concept that has taken the world by storm. Foodhallen is one building with many different stalls inside that offer different types of cuisine. You can order from any one that catches your fancy and grab a spot amidst the communal seating.
NDSM
In the evening, I recommend heading over to NDSM. This cultural hotspot is a collection of contemporary art studios and rotating exhibitions in a giant converted warehouse. You may catch a music show or a performance. There are also a few places to eat while on that side of the river.
The easiest way to arrive is to take the F4 ferry from Amsterdam Central Station. It is free and runs every 15-30 minutes. Be sure to hop back on before the ferry service ends at midnight.
Day 2
Rijksmuseum
There are so many different options to choose from, but Rijksmuseum is the crown jewel of museums in Amsterdam. This one is a must-see for any visitor. You can purchase your timed entry tickets the day of, but I recommend buying them a day or two before if you are on a strict schedule and need to be at the museum at a specific time. I also recommend coming here first and then exploring some of the other must-sees in the city such as the Van Gough Museum or the Anne Frank House Museum.
Albert Cuypstraat
All that wandering around and viewing of those giant Renaissance paintings of food in varying states of decay is bound to make you hungry. After visiting Rijksmuseum it is just a short jaunt to Albert Cupstraat Markt. This market stretches several blocks and includes giftable wares, flowers, and most importantly, traditional Dutch cuisine. Be sure to try the stroopwafels, pickled herring, bitterballen (meatballs), and patat friet (french fries).
The market is open 9:30 am-5:00 pm every day except Sundays.
Vondel Park
The Central Park of Amsterdam is worth strolling through on foot or by bike and is close to both Rijksmuseum and Albert Cuypstraat market. It’s a beautiful place to stop and take a rest on one of the many benches lining the park paths before continuing on with your busy day.
The Red Light District
No stay in Amsterdam would be complete without a stop at the famous Red Light District. Locals hate it, tourists love it. If you are visiting, I think you have to go at least to see it. There are even historical tours during the day for the faint of heart. It’s easy to find a burlesque show, sex show, or just head out on your own to experience the scene at night.
If you do go in the evening, be prepared to witness the true spectacle, the endless parade of bachelor or “stag” parties crowding the street. You will mostly see women in windows soliciting their wares as you walk the streets, which is to say, themselves. I enjoyed watching the full spectrum of how these women interacted with the passing crowd. Some were dancing, some were trying to entice potential customers with a flirty, joking manner. The most conventionally attractive were visibly bored, doom scrolling on their phones and awaiting their next client without having to put in much effort.
I was traveling alone for this trip, so I didn’t have the wild adventure I might have otherwise. But as I get older and wiser, I can’t help but grow in my appreciation of the quieter side of cities and life itself. The joys of earlier mornings, sans hangover. Trying new foods, even if it is for the first and last time. And most importantly, whether it be through observing classical art or observing my fellow tourist on their worst behavior, always learning something new whenever I have the opportunity.
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