The original concept for this blog was to act as an actual guide for fellow travelers, which then quickly devolved into an account of my personal musings while traveling more than anything else. Hopefully that is still useful on some level to someone out there, but upon reviewing some of my earliest posts, I decide to update my writing on Mexico City, where the idea for this blog all began.
Because I lived there for over two years and because people are always asking me for recommendations I decided to write an actual travel guide for Mexico City. This is for anyone who is visiting the city for the first time, and wants to see the main attractions as well as wander off the beaten path and get a feel for the city itself.
This is a lot of information, so I broke it down into a few categories to keep things organized and useful instead of my usual ramblings.
- The A List: Must sees for a first visit
- Neighborhoods You Should Know: Hidden Gems and restaurant recommendations
- Food Basics: Beyond the taco
- Travel tips: Go from tourist to traveler
The A List
Musts sees for your first time in Mexico City
Teotihuacan
First on the list is a day trip outside of the city itself. It you are spending more than two full days in Mexico City, I highly recommend going to visit this UNESCO world heritage site. These pyramids are the remains of the largest urban complex in Mesoamerica before the Aztec Empire. You can book a tour but I recommend traveling by bus from Terminal del Norte instead. It will take you an hour to arrive and is much cheaper. You will probably spend about a half day here. It is best to go in the morning, and remember to bring a hat and some sunscreen.
Photo from Abimelec Castillo in Unsplash
El Zócalo
The heart of the historic center of the city is the Zócalo, or main square, which is framed by the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Templo Mayor museum, and the National Palace. The size and grandeur of each of these towering buildings and the square itself really gives you a sense of the scale of the city you have entered. The cathedral was built by the Spanish on top of the ruins of the Aztec temples that were originally there. I’ve never been inside the cathedral but the museum is worth visiting, as is the national palace which features murals by Diego Rivera.
Photo from Bhargava Marripati in Unsplash
El Palacio de Bellas Artes
Just a short walk from the Zócalo you will find the Palace of Fine Arts. The building itself is a beautifully designed art nouveau building with sculptures and fountains dripping from every part of the exterior and surrounding area. There are rotating art exhibits inside and performances each week. I highly recommend you see the Baile Folklórico for a fun and energetic overview of the evolution of traditional Mexican dances and costumes. Tickets are very affordable and watching a performances is the only way to see the Tiffany stained glass curtain on the stage, an event in and of itself. If you are so inclined, you can go to the cafe at the top of the Sears tower across the street for the best view of the building and surrounding park.
Photo from Carlos Aguilar in Unsplash
Bosque de Chapultepec
Chapultepec is the city’s largest and most popular park, over twice the size of New York’s Central Park. While you can walk the always crowded main paths to buy food and souvenirs, it’s easy and recommended to get a little lost on one of the side paths and find a quite spot to rest at for awhile. There are several lakes to enjoy, and you can rent bikes for a day to try to cover more ground. The park houses a zoo, the Chapultepec Castle, and the Modern Art Museum. The crown jewel, in my opinion, is the Museum of Anthropology, where you can spend a whole day learning about the pre-colonial history of Mexico.
El Angel de Independencia
Mexico City’s most recognizable landmark. Consider walking by on a Sunday when the main avenue, Paseo de la Reforma, is open for pedestrians and bicyclists only, on your way to Chapultepec park.
Photo from Enrique Ortega Miranda in Unsplash
El Museo de Frida Khalo
A visit to Frida Khalo’s former home that has been converted into a museum dedicated to her art and life is a must see for anyone visiting Mexico City . Make sure you buy tickets in advance and go first thing in the morning, otherwise there will be a line down the block.
Xochimilco
Xochimilco (sow-chee-meel-kow) is such a unique and fun experience, I highly recommend it to every person visiting. Located in the south of the city, it’s easy to arrive by taxi or Uber. You can rent a colorful wooden boat called a trajinera to tour around the floating gardens while relaxing, eating, and drinking. This is a group experience, so while it will cost a lot more, if you are traveling by yourself or don’t speak Spanish you can book a tour. Otherwise I recommend just showing up and negotiating a price once you arrive.
Photo from Roberto Carlos Román Don in Unsplash
Neighborhoods You Should Know
Mexico City is a sprawling metropolis, and depending on the time of day, it can take an hour or several to get from on destination to another. For that reason, I recommend planning your trip by neighborhood to get the most out of each area of the city.
Centro Histórico
The historic center of the city is a good place to stay if you are planning on visiting the most popular landmarks, and I recommend spending at least one full day in this area if it is your first time in Mexico City.
A famous landmark dedicated to the Mexican Revolution, you can admire it from the plaza below or go up to the observation deck for a small fee.
The spot for Mariachi in Mexico City. You can experiences the tradition of paying to electrocute yourself and your friends with the toques, something that I always actively avoided and somehow get peer pressured into doing every single time. Now that you know which of your friends is the smartest because they broke the circle first, head to a bar for dinner and a show, or stay for a few songs in the plaza. Don’t wander outside of the plaza unless you are with someone that knows where they are going; the surrounding area can be sketchy.
I stayed at this hostel for my first ever trip to Mexico City. While the hostel is nothing special, you can access the rooftop bar even if you are not a guest. The bar is cheap, not overly crowded, and offers a view of the Zócalo. This is a great spot to take a break from site seeing.
A literal hole in the wall mezcalería with a cozy atmosphere and impressive Mezcal selection. Really a hidden gem in an area filled with tourist traps.
This is a hipstery market with different kinds of shops and a few places to eat. I recommend coming here to pick up some unique high quality souvenirs that are going to be a little different from the trinkets normally associated with Mexico.
Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela
The best place to get authentic, artisanal souvenirs at a reasonable price.
This is an open air flea market that happens every Sunday. You can find anything here but it is known for antiques. You can drink in the market while shopping. This area has been a market and black market area specifically since pre-hispanic times. The neighborhood is formerly known as Tepito and is an infamously dangerous and insulated area of Mexico City, especially for robberies. You will be fine in La Lagunilla but don’t wander off too far from the market and don’t go to this area at night.
Like the library below this open air market is technically in Colonia Buenavista, north of El Centro, but I am going to lump them in here. El Chopo happens every Saturday and caters to an alternative crowd. It has a kind of a punk rock vibe and is very friendly and welcoming. You are guaranteed to find something fun to take with you.
A beautiful public library. Designed by Alberto Kalach and Juan Palomar and completed in 2007, it is worth a visit if you are into architecture and/or libraries.
Roma Norte
Consider staying in this neighborhood, it’s a trendy central area with lots of bars and restaurants.
I love this bar! It is a converted sprawling mansion with three or four stories and a terrace. There is a different vibe and music on each floor. This is a great place to try pulque, a pre-hispanic slightly fermented agave drink, with a tangy yogurt flavor and consistency. Similar in my opinion to soju, it comes in different fruity flavors. You can also take a walk on the wild side by sampling the original flavor or something even stranger such as peanut. You may not love it, but I recommend everyone try it at least once.
This place is simple, clean, and never crowded. Every time I visit I come here and order a gringa al pastor.
The food here is not great, but the drinks and ambiance are. They only serve alcohol from Mexico, and have an impressive selection of domestic beers and mezcal.
La Condesa
A bit more upscale than Roma Norte and located very close by, this is also a good location to stay, with many options for when you are hungry or thirsty after a long day of seeing the sights.
A bookstore with a cafe that serves coffee and a full menu, there are several locations throughout the city but this one is my favorite.
A punk rock themed pizza joint that serves over the top pies. There is always a long wait but it is always good.
No idea if this area is still fun or not, but when I was living there cerca 2017 this was a good spot for bar hopping, specifically on Avenida Tamaulipas.
Polanco
This is one of the nicest neighborhoods in the city, and also the main business district. If you are in Mexico City for business, this is probably where you will want to stay. It is centrally located and close to Chapultepec park. I don’t have too many specific recommendation for this area, but there are a lots of fine dining options and trendy clubs located here.
An iconic building with an impressive collection. Entrance to the museum is always free, it was gifted to the city by Carlos Slim and dedicated to his late wife Soumaya.
Photo from mana5280 in Unsplash
One of the most renowned restaurants in the city. I have never eaten here because you need to make a reservation months in advance but I have always wanted to.
Coyoacán
I stayed in Coyoacán my first month living in Mexico City and it is still my favorite neighborhood. It is located in the south of the city and is a bit farther from El Centro. It has a more artistic and bohemian vibe than the previously mentioned neighborhoods.
This is a beautiful little park situated in the heart of Coyoacán that is great for taking a stroll and decompressing from the palpable energy of the city. When I first came here I freaked out when a squirrel came right up to me, thinking it had rabies. Turns out the squirrels are fine, people feed them so they will approach you wanting food. No need to fear.
It is rumored that Frida Khalo and Diego Riviera used to frequent this cafe and there are several locations throughout Coyoacán. I always buy a bag of ground coffee when I visit. Order the dona de nuez to go with your coffee and thank me later.
This is my favorite market in all of Mexico City. It has the best produce in my opinion. I also highly recommend eating at the Tostadas de Coyocán for lunch and La Cocina de Mi Mama for breakfast.
Another good spot for artisanal souvenir shopping.
This is a beautiful cinema with outdoor areas that is worth taking a detour for. If you have the time, you can catch an independent movie here, some of them are in English.
Miscellaneous
If you are feeling witchy, check out the Mercado de Sonora. You can find all kinds of occult items running the gamut from herbal remedies to Santa Muerte paraphernalia. Be prepared to see exotic and common live animals being sold.
Mercado de Jamaica is the flower market that supplies the whole city. It’s a little out of the way but it’s a cool experience to walk through aisle after aisle piled high with beautiful flowers to be sold every single day. If you go, make sure you arrive hungry and visit Carnitas Paty located inside the market for some of the best carnitas in the city. Try ordering tepache, a slightly fermented pineapple drink, to go with with it.
Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe
Catholicism is an integral part of the culture and history of Mexico. If this interests you at all I recommend a visit to the shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe. It is located in the northern part of the city and is easy to get to by Metro.
You can light a candle and stand on a moving walkway to view her portrait. She is an important Catholic symbol of the city, Mexico, and the Americas. Mexicans absolutely love her and you will see her iconography literally everywhere you go.
Local Chains
This is a classic churrería. There are several throughout the city but I recommend visiting the original location in Centro Histórico that is open 24 hours. Try the Chocolate Español for something different.
This restaurant is open 24 hours and is the most efficient institution in Mexico City. If you are not sure where to go for food, this is always a good, casual option. I recommend the pozole if it is your first time.
Another local chain that serves casual seafood and beer. Good for lunch or an early dinner before heading out for the night. I always get a ceviche or tuna tostada.
You will find El Pescadito throughout the city . They serve generously portioned seafood tacos. There is often quite a line but it moves quickly. I always get at least one QUE-SOTOTE, a taco filled with a stuffed fried cheese and shrimp chile.
Another local chain that I highly recommend, they make delicious popsicles with unique flavors. Try Panditas: lime with gummy bears, or Conejo en la luna: Rompope (similar to eggnog) with a chocolate rabbit in the middle.
Food Basics
I wanted to include some explanations and recommendations to get you started on your culinary journey. This is just a jumping off point, there is definitely a lot more to be said about eating in Mexico City. Maybe I’ll even write a blog post dedicated to just that one day…
Al Pastor
You can’t leave without trying al pastor at least once. I don’t have a specific restaurant recommendation, but you will see it literally everywhere you go and too many places claim to be the best. Most commonly served as a taco, this marinated pork dish is roasted on a rotating spit, a technique imported from Lebanon similar to how Shwarma is prepared. Ask for it con todo to try it with onions, cilantro, and a thin slice of pineapple.
Photo from Dennis Schrader in Unsplash
Quesadillas con queso
A quirk of Mexico City that all natives are weirdly defensive of, and all visitors are understandably annoyed by, is that you need to specify that you want your quesadilla with cheese. This is going to come up when ordering from street vendors and restaurants alike. Usually the person serving you will ask, but not always. Make sure that you order your quesadilla con queso to avoid disappointment and confusion.
Chapulines
If you get the chance, just go ahead and try the crickets! It’s not my personal favorite, but I think it’s worth the experience. You can get them as a bar snack or as a topping in a quesadilla or on a tlayuda, for example.
Esquites and Elotes
A classic street food, try roasted corn in a cup (esquite) or corn on the cob (elote) topped with mayonnaise cheese, chile, lime, and salt. It may sound odd but it is delicious. I came back from Mexico addicted.
Camotes
The assault to the senses that is integral to visiting Mexico City truly is impressive. One of the most disorienting aspects is the constant level and variety of noise. There are just so many different sounds specific to this city, and one to remember is ear splitting whistle of the camotero. Similar to an ice cream truck, flag this person down when you hear it for a roasted sweet potato or plantain served with cheese and/or sweetened condensed milk.
Mango with Chamoy and Tajin
You will see street vendors everywhere selling coconuts, pineapple, papaya, and more. My favorite is mango with Chamoy sauce and Tajin seasoning. Remember what I said about an assault to the senses? Add in some lime and salt because why not become overwhelmed with even more flavor.
Micheladas and Cheladas
There are two types of beer cocktails that are popular throughout Mexico. One, typically called Michelada, is a beer served with Clamato juice (a type of tomato cocktail juice), salsas such a maggi, hot sauce, lime, and usually a Tajin rim. If you like Bloody Marys, you will like this drink, I especially love it with some fish tacos or other casual seafood dish.
The other, typically called Chelada, is beer severed with lime juice, salt, and a salt rim. They are both delicious, however, the name of each drink switches between Michelada and Chelada depending on where you are in Mexico, and even which bar you are at in Mexico City. If it isn’t described on the menu, it’s best to confirm when you order by asking for your beer with lime and salt or with Clamato.
Mescal with oranges
Mezcal is Tequila’s older, smokier, hipster cousin. Similar to how Champagne is only from the Champagne region of France, and everything else is a sparkling wine, Tequila only comes from Tequila and a few other regions in Mexico. Although it is made from the same Agave plant, all other liquors are called Mezcal. Because of the regional variety, the flavor profile of Mezcal is more varied than tequila. I recommend ordering a shot and sipping it slowly because this stuff is strong and meant to be enjoyed. Like Tequila with lime, Mezcal is usually served with orange slices and Tajin.
Travel notes and tips
Tipping
A very important thing to note is that you need to tip the person bagging your groceries, this is their only source of income. 5-10 MXN is fine.
Mexicans will tip 10% at restaurants, or 15% for exceptional service. I always recommend tipping 20% regardless, but make sure you add something extra to the bill. You don’t need to tip taxis.
Getting around
Uber is very popular in Mexico and usually easier than getting a taxi. The public transportation system is very comprehensive and affordable, and can be a better option when there is always so much traffic in the city. The metro is 5 MXN per ride, regardless of how far you are going. You can buy a reusable plastic card or paper tickets at any station.
The first three cars of the Metro and the Metrobús are for women and children only. Avoid using the metro during peak hours or be prepared to get aggressive in order to board.
Rainy Season
While Mexico City stays temperate year round, there is a rainy season from June through September. You can still visit during this time, but be prepared for mostly clear skys with a torrential downpour every afternoon like clockwork that lasts a few hours.
Altitude
Mexico City is about 1.5 miles above sea level, and the air quality is not great. I fainted twice while living here, but that is another story for another day. Make sure to stay hydrated and take it easy and you will be fine.
I hope this guide helps you find what you are looking for, and more than anything that you find Mexico City as enchanting as I did.
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